Vancouver neighbourhood guide: Discover Marpole

by Megan Jones

Marpole – situated on the former Musqueam village c̓əsnaʔəm – stretches from Cambie to Granville Streets, south of 49th Avenue to Southwest Marine Drive. A vibrant and multicultural neighbourhood on the banks of the Fraser River, Marpole was originally separated from Vancouver by acres upon acres of dense forest. It officially joined the city in 1929, much later than most other districts. Today the neighbourhood remains picturesque and self-contained, and a welcome respite from Vancouver’s busy core. Discover parks, restaurants, history and more. [Photo credit: iStock/jamesvancouver]

Marpole is truly a multicultural district – according to a 2011 survey, more than half its population was born outside of Canada. Catering to this vibrant, diverse community are dozens of family-owned restaurants that line Granville Street – the neighbourhood’s main destination – offering a wide variety of delicious options. Bright and airy Talay Thai serves traditional Thai dishes such as curries, pad Thai and soups. Neighborhood hot spot Sushi Hoon’s specialty rolls are massive, with unexpected ingredients like blackened rice, deep-fried cream cheese and sweet mango sesame salsa. Mirchi Restaurant’s all-star chef makes his delicious Indian-meets-Pakistani dishes from scratch. Mirchi is an ideal option for Sunday dinner or a weekend lunch after a long walk in the park.

The Lower Mainland’s most powerful body of fresh water is truly a sight to behold – from tugboats and pleasure crafts to wildlife and marshes – there’s plenty to see from the Fraser River's wide (and wild) banks. Marpole offers plenty of gorgeous vistas along this impressive waterway. Head to Fraser River Park, where an idyllic boardwalk winds through deciduous trees, grass, marshes and blackberry bushes, and a historic fishing pier offers spectacular views. It’s also an off-leash zone, so pooches can play while owners enjoy the scenery. The second best spot to watch the water is Milltown Bar & Grill, a riverside pub offering craft beers, wines, ciders and delicious West Coast cuisine, complete with views of the rushing river.

A decades-old ‘hood, Marpole is naturally home to heritage sites that offer rich insight into a complex history. Visit the former home of Canadian author Joy Kogawa, whose bestselling novel, Obasan, tells the story of the persecution and internment of Canadian citizens of Japanese descent during World War II. Kogawa’s family was removed from the home on West 64th when she was a child, an experience documented in the home’s front room.

Pay homage to Marpole’s original inhabitants – the Musqueam peoples and their ancestors – at the stone cairn in the center of Marpole Park, erected in tribute to the largest First Nations burial site in North America, which was discovered in the 1930s. You can also tour the Arbutus Greenway, which extends from Marpole to False Creek. The historic, but long-empty railroad is now paved for walkers, bladers and cyclists.

Festivals here may be small, but thanks to Marpole’s tight-knit community, what they lack in size is made up for in spirit. In February, the festival calendar kicks off with an exciting Lion Dance to ring in the Chinese New Year, performed by residents of Marpole. In April, a popular Rainy Day Sale festival enlists stores along Granville Street to offer major discounts, as well as food and charity draws. In July, Marpole Summerfest showcases community booths, music (including a beloved Elvis impersonator), arts and crafts, games and more. October’s Great Marpole Trick-or-Treat invites merchants to hand out candy to little ones, and there’s also a competition for the best costume on Granville Street. The festival season finishes off with caroling along Granville Street each Saturday in December, and a festive Santa Claus Parade later in the month.

During an era when Vancouverites seem to be busier than ever, Marpole offers a slower pace and gorgeous natural beauty, and is still within city limits. From historical sites to diverse (and delicious) cuisine to walks along the Fraser River, this hidden gem is certainly worth exploring any day of the week.