The difference between seafood in Halifax and seafood in other places is quite obvious: You're eating something that was often caught 10 minutes before. Being surrounded by the ocean has its advantages! Halifax has it going on with seafood – whether you're looking for a refined lobster bisque or down-home fish and chips. Go fish.
Willman's has been in operation since the 1940s, yet it often flies under the radar because it's tucked away on a side street in the Hydrostone. Make the trip: The fish is fresh, with just the right amount of batter to stay crispy, accompanied by mountains of fries. With a checkerboard floor and views onto charming, tree-lined streets, the dining room at Willman's is an inviting spot.
It's hard to beat Salty's for location: Perched out over water, on one of the wooden docks that jut into Halifax Harbour, it has 180-degree views. In the summer, you can sit outside, breathe in the briny air, and watch the ferries go back and forth from Dartmouth. Try the soft, crunchy calamari or the crab cakes, which melt on the tongue. The salmon steak is juicy and perfect with a few drops of lemon. It's not cheap, but you won't care.
Take the ferry across to Alderney Landing for some gluten-free seafood at Evan's. They go out of their way to make sure all guests have options, but taste is not something they sacrifice in the process. The lobster poutine is as deliciously cheesy and soggy as any in Montreal; the clams and chips come with handmade tartar sauce – not too sweet; and the burger is a giant hunk of haddock. The setting is almost cafeteria-like, but even casual dining is worth a stop.
The Five Fishermen is another beacon on the Halifax dining scene. It’s impossible to miss in the large, historic house located on the corner of Argyle and Carmichael Street. As with other high-end seafood establishments in Halifax, if the fish isn't very fresh, then something is amiss. Please do try the lobster linguine or the lobster-stuffed scallops; they are a great mix of sweet and savoury. The service is excellent and the booths – made of dark wood, with brass railing around them -– are comfortable and cozy.
The Waterfront Warehouse actually occupies an entire warehouse. As such, it's cavernous, with a long bar on one side, upside down dinghies hanging from the ceiling and plenty of comfy booths available. Seeing as you're in Nova Scotia, get the bacon-wrapped Digby scallops – bacon saltiness with scallop chewiness is heavenly. When you really want to go for it, try the Warehouse Seafood Tower, which consists of lobster, oysters, shrimp and crab! Also, the staff are total sweethearts.
A bit off the beaten path, but still in the Halifax Regional Municipality, Boondocks gets you so close to the fish that the lobster in your lobster roll is actually right off the hook! The views from Eastern Passage are beautiful – cross your fingers the sun is shining and you can sit outside. Order the fish and chips; they're light on the batter and heavy on the taste, and of great value, to boot.
The subtle flavours of the crab bisque – not too fishy, not overly creamy – are representative of the wider menu at McKelvie's; there's a sense of skill and restraint here. It's evident, for example, in the tempura fish tacos, which have just enough batter and just enough spice. Located in an attractive historic building near the harbour, McKelvie's arched windows let in plenty of light, giving the dining room, with its inviting booths, a bright, contemporary feel.